Above: A deconstructed Sacher torte of apricot sorbet, cake and whipped cream atop salted chocolate cookie crumbles at Borgo Agnese in Brno

After experiencing some superlative new restaurants inPrague, I should have expected that the Czech Republic’s second-largest city would also contain its fair share of notable dining establishments. Nevertheless, as I explored what Brno had to offer, I couldn’t help but be surprised by the high quality of the cuisine. Unsophisticated provincial fare this was not.

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