The colorful and (formerly) aristocratic spa town of Karlovy Vary would seem an ideal location for fine-dining restaurants to flourish, but I was surprised to discover only a handful of establishments that looked memorable. Fortunately, the restaurants that we did try ranged from good to excellent, making it possible to dine well at every meal over the course of a short stay in town.

With one or two exceptions, the best restaurants in Karlovy Vary are in hotels. But since I failed to find a recommendable property in town, the best idea is to visit as a day trip from Prague, approximately two hours away by car.

Embassy Restaurant

With vaulted brick ceilings, stained glass and dark wood, this restaurant has a cozy and traditional atmosphere, ideal for a winter’s lunch. This is a place to come for comfort food, not culinary fireworks. I started with a plate of grilled shrimp in an herbed beurre blanc, a simple but well-prepared dish that was a pleasant change of pace from Czech recipes. My satisfying main course of a roast goose drumstick — rather like duck confit — came with sweet braised cabbage, addictive caraway-spiked gravy and an assortment of dumplings: potato, bread and (my favorite) bread-and-bacon. A glass of zippy local Grüner Veltliner managed to pair well with both dishes, surprisingly enough. For an Old World dining experience, Embassy is a fine choice.