Over the years, we have visited the Caribbean countless times, and our experiences there have ranged from blissful to dire. On a good day, however, it is undeniably one of the most agreeable places on earth. The sun is hot but not too hot; the sand and water can be world-class; and the gently insistent trade wind brings a delicious softness to the island climate. At the end of our recent extended trip, we concluded that the region is changing fast, and in many ways for the better.