Above: Jerusalem artichoke panna cotta topped with Jerusalem artichoke purée, caviar, hazelnuts and edible gold at Salabka in Prague

If you had told me 20 years ago that one day I would be recommendingPragueas a culinary hot spot, I would have replied that your mind was addled by overconsumption of pork and bread dumplings. For many years after the fall of the Iron Curtain, Prague’s dining options consisted of beer pubs, former dining halls for the proletariat and a handful of upscale French and Italian venues. Nowadays, local food blogs opine about the merits of the new gourmet Vietnamese spot, who has the best brunch, and if the newcomer with the Asian-Nordic-Czech tasting menu is really worth it. (It is.)

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