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On my recent trip to Ghent, Belgium, I came across Proof, a newly opened shop and tasting room that carries a variety of the best and rarest spirits from all over Europe. Its most interesting bottles are the gins being produced by new distilleries in Flanders. (This represents a local renaissance, since jenever, the juniper-flavored liquor from which gin evolved, was born in the Low Countries during the 13th century.)