The major sites of Hungary’s capital — Parliament, Fisherman’s Bastion, Matthias Church, Central Market Hall, the thermal baths, etc. — are all still there, and all are certainly worth visiting. But if you’re returning to Budapest, you’ll notice some differences in various places, and not just because of the ongoing renovations of historic buildings.

The most extraordinary changes in recent years have been in City Park. Southeast of Heroes’ Square stand two marvels of contemporary architecture.

The center of the immense Museum of Ethnography looks as though it’s been pressed into the ground, leaving only the ends curving upward. Completed in 2022, it’s worth a look if only for its roof gardens, the far edges of which afford panoramic views of the city. Temporary exhibitions inside may also catch your fancy (the permanent collection has yet to be fully installed). Portions of the interior are free to visit.