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Like going to a musical in New York, seeing a tango show in Buenos Aires is a classic experience in the city, especially for first-time visitors. Argentina’s capital has numerous options, which can make it difficult to narrow down the choices. We had fun at all three of the contrasting venues below, and I would recommend any of them, depending on your style preference. Advance reservations are essential.
Held in a cozy bar in Palermo Hollywood, this predinner show was my favorite, despite its lack of razzle-dazzle. A maximum of 20 guests sit at tables arranged in a semicircle, all with clear views of the five performers: a pianist, a bandoneon (similar to an accordion) player, an alto and two dancers. The piano-bandoneon duets were mesmerizing, and the singer’s rich, soulful voice filled the room, practically forcing the audience to pay attention. The dancers wore the same brown outfits for every dance, but it didn’t matter. They tangoed so beautifully together that the costumes became a secondary consideration. The intimacy of the space and the dynamism of the performers made this hourlong show the most emotionally affecting of the three. Waitstaff kept wine and water glasses topped up, but food isn’t available. We walked over to Crizia (see our restaurant reviews) for dinner afterward.
Secreto Tango Society
Faro Bar, Gorriti 5801
Buenos Aires’ most exclusive tango show takes place in a surprisingly small space in the flashy Faena Hotel, an extravagant converted warehouse in Puerto Madero. Transfers to and from the theater are included in the ticket price, and a three-course pre-performance dinner is optional. Food at tango shows doesn’t tend to impress, but here it was quite good. I started with a simple but delicious terrine of fresh prawn with pea purée and sweet-potato chips, followed by al dente lamb ravioli dressed with rich sage cream and smoky eggplant. At a neighboring table, a patron noted that his steak was a bit overcooked when the waitress asked about it. She insisted on replacing the dish, despite his protestations that it was fine. The show itself illustrated the evolution of tango, from its start in the early 20th century to today, and the elaborate costumes followed suit. A live band provided spirited accompaniment. The production quality was high and the choreography sparkled, but the slickness of the performance limited its emotional impact on me. Still, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better traditional tango show in Buenos Aires.
Rojo Tango
Faena Hotel, Martha Salotti 445
Reopened in late 2024, Albur is the reincarnation of El 35, an ornate 1920s theater in San Nicolás that was eventually abandoned and left to rot. Its current owner, while seeking to expand a parking lot, discovered the dilapidated historic space and became determined to bring it back to life. The result is exceedingly glamorous; it reminded me a bit of Maxim’s in Paris, only bigger. Short rows of tables stood before the stage, the proscenium arch outlined in a double row of bulbs, and at the opposite end glowed a cocktail bar. Albur isn’t strictly a tango venue. Depending on the evening, you might see a cabaret show, a jazz combo or even a Beatles tribute band.
I made us a late dinner reservation to coincide with a Monday-night tango show, and as we sat down, the maitre d’ informed us that it had been canceled. My disappointment turned to wonder, however, when I learned that we were the only patrons for the remainder of the evening, and the staff had still arranged for a pianist to perform. Perhaps half a dozen servers attended to our needs, bringing well-mixed classic cocktails and an array of delicious food. As we listened to jazz standards and tango music, we tucked into delectable sweetbreads with caramelized onion and a corn cake, fresh Patagonian trout with saffron cream and fork-tender roast suckling pig with a decadent potato mille-feuille.
Even though we saw not a single step of tango, the evening was a great success. Albur surely feels different when one has to share it with other guests, but don’t let the probability of company stop you. Consult the calendar of events to find a show that’s appealing, and by all means, enjoy this wonderful performance venue and restaurant.
Albur
Callao 435
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