Argentina may be most famous for its beef, but Buenos Aires restaurants don’t cater only to carnivores. Like New York, Buenos Aires is a city built by immigrants, and its diverse culinary offerings reflect a multitude of traditions. We had beautiful meals based on fresh seafood and seasonal produce, in addition to a steak feast or two. Unfortunately, the stylish vegetarian restaurant we tried has since closed. As an alternative, consider Gioia Cocina Botánica in the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt hotel, which offers an upscale vegan menu.

Crizia
» Gorgeous gourmet seafood in stylish surrounds

In the fashionable Palermo Hollywood neighborhood, Crizia has a sleek, dark dining room with tables lit by candles and spotlights. The exquisite nine-course seafood tasting menu had nary a misfire. After a set of pretty amuse-bouches came a sweetly briny Patagonian oyster, garnished by a shallot vinaigrette reduction and Tabasco. The wine pairing, a brut rosé from Buenos Aires Province, had both classiness and verve. Another delightful course centered on baby squid from the Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands): a crispy ink chip topped by crunchy-tender tentacles and a little bowl of black risotto with soft squid and savory white sausage. A small-production Malbec worked startlingly well with a flawless rockfish fillet enhanced by scallop-prawn foam and seaweed chips. And a pretty dessert, a sort of deconstructed Pavlova, ended the meal on a high note. Crizia makes the most of Argentina’s impeccable seafood.

Crizia 
Fitz Roy 1819. Tel. (54) 11-4776-5005

Elena
» Upscale comfort food in an atmospheric hotel restaurant

Whether or not you’re staying in the Four Seasons, Elena deserves consideration for lunch or dinner in Retiro. With chevron-tiled floors and leather seating, the atmospheric, skylit space has something of a brasserie sensibility. The pacing was slow, but I enjoyed interacting with our personable server and the sommelier. The latter started me off with an Angelica Zapata Chardonnay with Burgundian-level polish. To pair with it, I opted for New York strip carpaccio with black-garlic aioli and capers atop a flat chipá roll. I folded it up to make a messy but sensational little sandwich. Steak is a specialty, but I was in a seafood mood. My main of sautéed shrimp with wasakaka (Dominican garlic sauce), crunchy falafel, creamy avocado purée and paper-thin ribbons of zucchini and fennel was just what I wanted. We also split a decadent pan of casarecce pasta with truffle-cheese cream and broccoli. A deep and spicy Gran Enemigo Cabernet Franc cut right through the richness.

Elena
Four Seasons Buenos Aires, Posadas 1086/88. Tel. (54) 11-4321-1200

Michel Rolland Grill & Wine
» Superb steaks with memorable wines

Mendoza excels at Cabernet Franc, as further evidenced by Michel Rolland’s blend of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, with bold, ripe fruit and graceful tannins, and his varietal Cabernet Franc, a dark and hearty wine with real class. We sampled both at this steakhouse in the upscale Puerto Madero neighborhood, where we sat on the conservatory-like covered patio. On our waiter’s recommendation, we split the bife de chorizo, 14 ounces of perfectly medium-rare beef with a salty, savory sear — a gorgeous match with the wines. Sides of grilled vegetables and “puré de la abuela” (essentially mashed potatoes with bits of ham) were also delicious. Even the simple fresh baguette with smoked butter was a bite of heaven. Other steakhouses in Buenos Aires get more press, but we left this one feeling most satisfied.

Michel Rolland Grill & Wine
Juana Manso 1760. Tel. (54) 911-5339-3178

Mishiguene
» International Jewish cuisine in an energetic setting

In a quiet corner of Palermo bounded by parks, lively Mishiguene serves soulful cuisine inspired by Jewish recipes from around the world. You can delve into a (substantial) tasting menu, but we ordered à la carte from our friendly but overwhelmed server. After an elaborate bread service, our appetizer arrived: wonderfully creamy hummus with chunks of sweet roasted leek and a haystack of crunchy leek straws. Then came the unique take on kibbeh. The immense quenelle on the plate mixed supple beef tenderloin tartare and chewy bulgur. Cool labneh and spicy tomato coulis were the deliciously contrasting garnishes. Last was the farfel risotto, a bowl of brown that tasted much better than it looked. The rye pasta cooked in chicken broth and finished with truffle oil, onion confit and garlic was absolutely addictive. Our dinner here was great fun and, true to the restaurant’s name, just a little crazy.

Mishiguene
Lafinur 3368. Tel. (54) 911-3969-0764

---

Transform the way you travel. Become an Andrew Harper member today. Join here.

---