Many travelers like to complain that Venice is now bereft of authenticity. And indeed, less than 50,000 Venetians live in the historic city center, a number that continues to shrink each year due to a lack of opportunity for locals. A poetic Venetian I met at a wine bar described himself and his fellow citizens as “beasts of a strange country, dancing for scraps in a gilded cage.” 

Inevitably, there are times when Venice feels like Disneyland. But if you stay longer and travel deeper, this watery city, held together by crumbling masonry and ancient secrets, unveils a kind of magic you can’t find anywhere else on earth. I have a sneaking suspicion that people who dislike Venice have never made it very far from St. Mark’s Square or the Rialto Bridge.

My traveling companion and I stayed at four distinct properties in four neighborhoods, relishing the chance to explore quarters that are far from the beaten path. This trip left me with a newfound appreciation for this beautiful and complicated place. Even in the midst of high season, I found the city to be utterly enchanting and downright welcoming. I spent a week there, which some would say is too long, but I found it wasn’t quite long enough.