When I mentioned to a friend that I planned on returning to theBariloche area, he asked, “Why? Isn’t that place just for Argentine skiers?” Bariloche is certainly that, with 37 lifts, some 75 miles of runs and 3,700 feet of vertical drop at the Cerro Catedral resort alone. But I always visit outside of ski season, to enjoy cruises on island-speckled Lake Nahuel Huapi, scenic hikes in the mountainous national park surrounding it or trout fishing on nearby rivers.