Above: Main estancia at La Bamba de Areco

It’s easy enough to escape the bustle ofBuenos Airesby air, but one need not go far afield to enjoy the pleasures of the Argentine countryside. The city stands at the edge ofthe Pampas, a vast sweep of grasslands now mostly converted into estancias and rich farmland. Fluffy tufts of pampas grass still punctuate the wilder patches. Although the land is essentially flat, it has great beauty. As in certain other fortunate parts of the world such as Greece and Provence, the quality of the light here can be extraordinary, casting a golden glow around the nativeombutrees.

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