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It’s easy enough to escape the bustle of Buenos Aires by air, but one need not go far afield to enjoy the pleasures of the Argentine countryside. The city stands at the edge of the Pampas, a vast sweep of grasslands now mostly converted into estancias and rich farmland. Fluffy tufts of pampas grass still punctuate the wilder patches. Although the land is essentially flat, it has great beauty. As in certain other fortunate parts of the world such as Greece and Provence, the quality of the light here can be extraordinary, casting a golden glow around the native ombu trees.