Chefs in coastal New England take full advantage of their access to just-off-the-boat seafood. The quality of the ingredients here — including excellent local produce and meats — makes it quite difficult to have a bad meal. I enjoyed everything from simple lobster rolls to creative fusion compositions, but I most appreciated dishes that made local seafood the star.

Cape Cod

Impudent Oyster

A block off Chatham’s Main Street, this restaurant’s bright and cheerful dining room has white tablecloths, but it still feels cozy and casual, especially with its lively bar in the back. Since we went at lunch, I appreciated the option of creative mocktails. A tart “Lovey Duck” of alcohol-free gin, homemade blackberry-thyme shrub and soda cut through the richness of superb classic clam chowder. The drink also refreshed my palate between bites of a decadent Nantucket scallop sandwich, with crumbled bacon, melted Monterey jack and tartar sauce accenting the lightly fried scallops, all piled on a soft baguette. It was a delicious change of pace from lobster rolls. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

Impudent Oyster
15 Chatham Bars Avenue, Chatham, Massachusetts. Tel. (508) 945-3545