The diversity of the Andalusian kitchen reflects the many different peoples who have lived in this strategic region at the entrance to the Mediterranean. For example, the Phoenicians, the ancient seafaring people originally based in current-day Lebanon, invented mojama, the key ingredient in one of Andalusia’s most popular tapas. Mojama is made by curing slices of tuna in salt for two days and then hanging it to dry in the wind and the sun, which creates its distinctive umami flavor. The Phoenicians also introduced olive trees to Spain, which eventually provided the superb oil that is used in so many Andalusian dishes today. The most enduring imprint on Andalusian cuisine came from the Moorish period, which lasted from 711 to 1492. The Moors brought rice, sugar cane, almonds and apricots across the Straits of Gibraltar, and introduced pastry making and (among other things) the preservation of food with vinegar, such as lightly pickled boquerones (anchovies), which are another popular tapas. Later, the discovery of the Americas resulted in the introduction of tomatoes and corn.

Today, cities in Andalusia have their signature dishes. Jamón Jabugo — ham from free-range black pigs that graze on acorns in the countryside north of Huelva — is popular everywhere, but in Málaga and Marbella, specialties include skewers of grilled sardines, bream or shrimp and fritura Malagueña, a mix of lightly floured seafood fried in hot oil that usually includes anchovies, squid, whitebait and shrimp. Ensalada Malagueña, made with salt cod, potatoes, green olives and oranges, is a refreshing salad seen year-round on menus in Málaga. Pipirrana, a salad made with finely chopped tomato, green and red peppers, onions and olives garnished with tuna, mussels or other seafood, is also popular. Most often eaten during the winter, another Málagan classic is gazpachuelo Malagueño, a hearty soup of fish and potatoes cooked in vinegar and water and garnished with mayonnaise.

While traditional Andalusian cooking remains popular in both Málaga and Marbella, the reliable presence of an international clientele, along with food-loving locals and vacationing Spaniards from other parts of the country, has encouraged the emergence of one of the most interesting restaurant scenes in Spain. Here are some of our favorite tables on the Costa del Sol.