It’s no surprise that the Canary Islands, which have been owned by Spain since the 1400s, take culinary influences from the mainland. But they also have their own specialties: grilled seafood, smoky cheeses, hearty stews and the ubiquitous papas arrugadas, or wrinkly potatoes. The archipelago also produces unique and delicious wines from rare grape varieties like Vijariego Blanco and Listán Negro. We spent three days in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, the most populous city in the Canaries, and discovered three restaurants worth returning to.

Allende Triana

During a day of shopping along the pedestrianized Calle Triana, we worked up an appetite and found fashionable Allende Triana on a cross street amid several other cafés. We chose well. Outside tables are at a premium, and reservations are encouraged even for lunch, but they found us a nice spot inside. With stylish shoppers taking an afternoon break in the all-white space, we could have mistaken the restaurant for a brasserie in New York’s Soho. Our waiter promptly took our orders and hustled over wontonlike fried langoustines with a tasty romesco dipping sauce; papas arrugadas, drenched in a spicy mojo picón sauce; and miniature burgers — two melted with brie, caramelized onion and quince preserve, and two with tomato, truffled cheese and arugula. A dainty “ladies who lunch” spread this was not, but we had no regrets.

Allende Triana 
Calle Domingo J. Navarro 16. Tel (34) 928-380-948