In addition to trying new restaurants in Chicago, I returned to two old favorites. Regrettably, their current performances did not live up to my fond memories, or to their Michelin stars.

moto

I loved the high-flying molecular cuisine of moto when it opened 10 years ago, and the fact that it has maintained its Michelin star gave me hope that it had aged gracefully. It has not. Some of our eight courses were successful, but most were uninventive, and a few were quite disagreeable (a chewy and visually unappealing goat dish comes vividly to mind). moto used to be in the vanguard, but its creative energy is clearly exhausted.

moto
945 West Fulton Market. Tel. (312) 491-0058