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I first fell in love with Brittany many years ago, back in the days when it took nearly seven hours to travel by train from Paris to Quimper, a charming town in Finistère, the remotest corner of this shaggy green Atlantic province. What first exhilarated me about Brittany was the breathtaking beauty of its indented coastline. I also liked its peaceful countryside, the simple solid architecture of its tidy villages, the doorways and windows of the white houses bordered with granite, the churches with steeples sharp enough to rally a conscience, the superb seafood and the friendly and well-mannered Bretons themselves.