The Greek capital’s restaurant scene is more gastronomically adventurous and cosmopolitan than it’s ever been. A new generation of Greek chefs has returned to the city having cooked abroad in countries such as Denmark, France, Spain and the United States, bringing home ideas and techniques that they learned overseas. This explains the current popularity of farm-to-table menus in Athens, the new importance of sustainability and the reinterpretation of traditional Greek foods and recipes through a prism of modern culinary creativity. Seasonal Greek produce stars on many menus, while the wine lists at these new spots have become showcases for the excellence of younger Greek winemakers. Here are some of the places we most enjoyed during our recent visit.

Annie — Fine Cooking

Not far from the Acropolis, this friendly, casual restaurant with English-speaking staff is an excellent lunch destination for its delicious Greek comfort food. Chef Stavriani Zervakakou shops in the local markets each morning to find the freshest seasonal produce, and, hence, the menu here changes daily. In general, she loves to showcase foods and dishes from different regions of Greece. Highlights of our meal included vermicelli cooked in a seafood broth with cuttlefish ink and served with steamed clams and sautéed langoustines; amaranth greens and cured pork on grilled sourdough bread topped with a grilled sea bass fillet and served with a garnish of samphire, onions and pickled loquats; and a superb fresh lemon-and-rose sorbet for dessert.

Annie — Fine Cooking
Menechmou 4, Athens. Tel. (30) 210-921-3690

Delta

The most exciting new restaurant in Athens is run by chefs Thanos Feskos and George Papazacharias, both of whom previously cooked at two of the best restaurants in Scandinavia, Geranium in Copenhagen and Maaemo in Oslo, respectively. Made idle by COVID lockdowns, they decided to return home and open a restaurant that would showcase sustainable Greek produce, much of it foraged and wild. Three tasting menus are offered: Omnivore, Vegetarian and Vegan. Seated in the contemporary dining room, with its striking bronze bar, we chose the Omnivore option. Among our favorite dishes were a sourdough brioche cooked on a barbecue and brushed with fermented honey; clams with preserved bergamot, crispy grilled sweetbreads and greens; and a biscuit of caramelized chicken, fermented berries, jam and chocolate. Reserve as far in advance as possible.

Delta
Andrea Siggrou 364, Athens. Tel. (30) 698-665-7553