The European country that many of us have missed the most during the pandemic turns out to be Greece. Visitor arrivals rose vertiginously in 2022, outpacing other much-loved Old World destinations such as Italy, France and Great Britain. This isn’t exactly surprising, since the allure of the place is obvious. Its dozens of islands scattered across the Aegean and Ionian seas make up one of the world’s great destinations. Athens, its capital, is a vibrant and fascinating city, and everywhere, the archaeological remains of the country’s ancient past never cease to amaze. A crop of charming new small hotels has opened since our last visit, and it was a pleasure to spend time discovering the best of them.