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The busy airport of Málaga-Costa del Sol is the gateway to the region, with regular flights from Madrid, Barcelona and other large European cities. It’s also possible to take a fast AVE train between Madrid and Málaga, which takes about two and a half hours.
Transfer to your hotel, either the neo-Moorish 190-room Gran Hotel Miramar along the coast or the 68-room Palacio Solecio, recently opened in a lavishly renovated 18th-century palace.
Begin your Málaga explorations at the city’s formidable Alcazaba, the 11th-century citadel with toast-colored stone ramparts that is perhaps the best-preserved Moorish fortress in Spain. Perched over one of the great harbors of the Mediterranean, it was impregnable for centuries, until it finally succumbed to the Spanish in 1487. Today, it is a peaceful place, with gardens filled with palm trees, twittering birds, spattering fountains and blazes of purple bougainvillea. From the walls we surveyed the arms of the harbor backed by the azure sweep of the Mediterranean, the city’s ruined Roman amphitheater, the bullring and the Renaissance belfry of the Catedral de la Encarnación de Málaga, which was built on the site of the former Aljama mosque.
Originally built in 1789 for a Genoese papermaker, the magnificent Palacio Solecio hotel was reinvented by trendsetting hotelier Pablo Carrington in 2019.
View Hotel ListingTake two more days to explore Málaga. This ancient and atmospheric port city (and birthplace of Pablo Picasso) has followed in the footsteps of Bilbao and Valencia in reinventing itself as an avant-garde art destination. Within the past decade, several great museums, including the Centre Pompidou in Paris, the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid and the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, have opened satellite museums in Málaga.
Also stroll along Calle Larios, the city’s main shopping street (now pedestrianized), and visit the Muelle Uno (Wharf One), a popular dockside development of restaurants, shops and bars. (Read more about where to shop in Málaga.) You might also stop in the Museo de Málaga, which opened in the city’s old customs house, the Palacio de la Aduana, in 2016. It has an excellent collection of archaeological discoveries and fine art. I also recommend spending a tranquil hour wandering around the city’s 56-acre Jardín Botánico Histórico La Concepción, one of the largest botanical gardens in Europe.
Originally built in 1789 for a Genoese papermaker, the magnificent Palacio Solecio hotel was reinvented by trendsetting hotelier Pablo Carrington in 2019.
View Hotel ListingPick up a rental car (or hire a driver-guide) and head about an hour and 45 minutes west to Ronda, an extraordinarily picturesque town situated 2,500 feet above sea level on either side of “El Tajo,” the dramatic 390-foot gorge of the Guadalevín River. A spectacularly scenic 18th-century bridge connects the old walled Moorish quarter (La Ciudad) with the centuries-old “new town.” Ronda’s native son, Francisco Romero, laid down the rules of bullfighting in 1695 and the town is the site of the oldest ring in Spain, built in 1784. This history brought Hemingway to La Ciudad, where he became a part-time resident.
Explore Ronda, and then in the late afternoon, check into the 11-room Hotel La Fuente de la Higuera, tucked away in rolling hills amid olive groves, 10 minutes outside of Ronda. Although it is not a conventional luxury hotel, it proved a place that I was exceptionally sorry to leave when last I was there. The rooms are attractively decorated with ivory walls, white-painted wood floors, antique furniture, ceiling fans and mosquito nets over wrought-iron beds. Ours also had a spacious private terrace and a working fireplace.
The real charm of the place, however, is that it doesn’t feel like a hotel and yet manages to deliver service and comfort of a very high standard. Publicity seems to be mostly by word-of-mouth, so you’re likely to cross paths with some extremely interesting and entertaining people. Delicious dinners (featuring produce from the hotel grounds) invariably lasted well into the night. During the day, a small swimming pool provides an idyllic place to relax in the landscaped garden.
Housed in a renovated olive-oil mill about 10 minutes outside the picturesque town of Ronda, the family-run Hotel La Fuente de la Higuera provides country-house comforts amid rolling hills and olive groves.
View Hotel ListingI recommend making a day excursion to some of the Pueblos Blancos, the white villages, within easy reach of Ronda. The suggested circle below takes about two and a half hours to complete by car, not including any stops. (Note that it includes some hilly, twisty roads.)
Start by driving about 40 minutes west to the white town of Grazalema, located in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. It was once a textile center, and fine handmade pieces can still be purchased in the village. Drive about 30 minutes north over low mountains to the evocatively named Zahara de la Sierra. The picturesque town, a splash of white beneath a castle-topped crag, overlooks a large man-made reservoir. From there, turn east, driving along the lakeshore, and head about 45 minutes to Setenil de las Bodegas. Parts of this well-protected village look like a combination of a Spanish Pueblo Blanco and a Native American cliff dwelling. From Setenil, it’s less than a half-hour back to the Hotel La Fuente de la Higuera.
Housed in a renovated olive-oil mill about 10 minutes outside the picturesque town of Ronda, the family-run Hotel La Fuente de la Higuera provides country-house comforts amid rolling hills and olive groves.
View Hotel ListingAfter breakfast, drive about an hour and 15 minutes to one of my longtime favorite hideaways in Andalusia, the 15-room Hacienda de San Rafael, surrounded by 350 acres of olive orchards and sunflower fields. Opt for one of the three Casita Suites, or if traveling as a group, book one of the new three-bedroom Pool Suites
The accommodations are rustic-Andalusian in style with terra cotta floors and decorated with old farm implements, contemporary art and souvenirs gathered by the owners on their travels.
Have an alfresco lunch at the hotel and take the rest of the day to relax on the property, enjoying the pool and grounds. (Restless sorts can take advantage of golf, horseback riding or hiking nearby.)
Amid a 350-acre working farm on the fertile Andalusian plains, this hospitable Hacienda de San Rafael country inn, owned by the Reid family, is about 45 minutes south of Seville.
View Hotel ListingA 40-minute drive southwest from the hotel, Jerez de la Frontera is the home of sherry, one of the world’s greatest fortified wines. Sherry ranges from light-colored and dry to deep and richly nutty. The wine isn’t especially fashionable in the United States, but to my mind, it’s hugely underrated.
In Jerez, I recommend Bodegas Tradición, which specializes in aged sherries. It also has a remarkable collection of Spanish paintings, including works by Picasso, El Greco, Goya, Velázquez and Zurbarán. Also consider visiting Bodegas Lustau, which was founded in 1896 and produces the highly regarded Fino La Ina. Arrange appointments in advance with your travel advisor or the hotel.
Fans of horses may want to visit Jerez during the Feria del Caballo, a major annual spectacle that takes place each May, when thousands gather in the 13-acre Parque González Hontoria to see the finest steeds in Andalusia.
If time permits, make a short detour to see the white town of Arcos de la Frontera, or simply return to the Hacienda de San Rafael.
Amid a 350-acre working farm on the fertile Andalusian plains, this hospitable Hacienda de San Rafael country inn, owned by the Reid family, is about 45 minutes south of Seville.
View Hotel ListingIf you have never visited Seville, take an additional day at the Hacienda de San Rafael and make a day trip north to the extravagantly beautiful city. Otherwise, depart the hotel and drive about two hours east to La Bobadilla, a Royal Hideaway Hotel, a 70-room resort set amid 860 acres of orchards, gardens and hiking trails. All guest accommodations feature private gardens, terraces or balconies, and airy public spaces draw inspiration from Moorish architecture.
Settle in and take the remainder of the day to enjoy the property and its amenities, such as its broad outdoor pools, large spa and tennis courts.
Located in the foothills an hour from Málaga and Granada, Finca La Bobadilla is an enclave set within 860 acres of olive and oak trees.
View Hotel ListingThe city of Granada is the most obvious day trip from La Bobadilla, notably to visit the Alhambra, one of the greatest monuments in all of Europe. Arguably representing the apex of Moorish culture, this fortress/pleasure palace suffered looting and even partial demolition over the centuries, but much of its mind-bogglingly intricate stuccowork, lacéria (the “carpentry of knots”) and zellij tiles remain intact. (Book entry tickets in advance, and avoid the crowded high season if possible.)
If you’ve already visited Granada, make a day trip instead into Las Alpujarras, a set of scenic villages in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. This relatively inaccessible region was the last holdout of the Moors, and the architecture of the towns can feel more Moroccan than Spanish. It takes about two hours (passing by Granada) to reach a cluster of three especially attractive villages, Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira.
Return to La Bobadilla in time for aperitifs and dinner.
Located in the foothills an hour from Málaga and Granada, Finca La Bobadilla is an enclave set within 860 acres of olive and oak trees.
View Hotel ListingDrive about an hour and 20 minutes (or an hour and 45 minutes if you hug the Mediterranean coast) to the resort town of Marbella, which is rather like a Spanish cousin of Cannes in the south of France. Head into the pedestrianized Old Town (get directions for parking in advance) and check into the Hotel Claude Marbella. This recently refurbished seven-room hotel occupies a 17th-century mansion that was once the summer residence of Eugenia de Montijo, the wife of the French emperor Napoleon III. The roof terrace is lovely, but I also recommend reserving one of the accommodations with a private balcony.
Take the rest of the day to settle in and start exploring Marbella.
The elegant Hotel Claude Marbella occupies a 17th-century mansion that was once the summer residence of the wife of French emperor Napoleon III.
View Hotel ListingA day, or three, at one of the full-service beach clubs on the Costa del Sol is a quintessential experience on a visit to this sun-soaked region. These pay-per-day clubs vary from luxurious places with spas and restaurants to simpler ones that rent sun beds and umbrellas.
La Cabane was the Costa del Sol’s first beach club and it remains popular with Spanish notables and members of the aristocracy. A full-service club, it offers direct access to the beach, a fine restaurant, a VIP area (book in advance), hammocks and private cabins.
Alternatively, or in addition, spend a day at Soleo Marbella, a club popular with locals for its good service, beautiful views of the Mediterranean and excellent restaurant. The menu offers classics like croquetas, fried anchovies, paella and espetos (skewered sardines grilled over a wood fire).
The elegant Hotel Claude Marbella occupies a 17th-century mansion that was once the summer residence of the wife of French emperor Napoleon III.
View Hotel ListingDrive about 40 minutes to Málaga’s airport, return your rental car if you drove yourself, and depart.
This is a sample itinerary designed to inspire your travels. Price listed is based on two people sharing, except where noted. Flights are not included. Room categories, dates of travel and change to services may affect the starting price. Contact the Andrew Harper Travel Office to customize this journey to fit your needs.