Cáceres is an atmospheric small city of around 95,000 inhabitants in the western Extremadura region. Twelfth-century Moorish walls encircle the entire Ciudad Monumental (the old center), dotted at intervals with watchtowers that afford stirring views across the surrounding plains. Medieval streets and fortified houses are complemented by imposing Gothic and Renaissance architecture, while many of the city’s mansions were built by locals returning home newly enriched from Spain’s colonies in Mexico, Colombia and Peru. But Cáceres also has a foot planted firmly in the present, as evidenced by the Fundación Helga de Alvear, an outstanding art collection housed in a spectacular purpose-built International-style museum. This pedestrian-friendly destination is easy to reach by train from Madrid’s Atocha station, a three-and-a-half-hour journey through pretty Spanish countryside. Should you decide to drive, the city is three hours (185 miles) from Madrid on good roads. Cáceres could be a stop on a fascinating circular itinerary that includes Toledo, Salamanca, Zamora and Segovia.