The desert city of Jaisalmer lies 175 miles northwest of Jodhpur. Once, it was a refuge and supply depot for caravans plying the trade route between western India and Arabia. But with the rise of the great ports of Bombay and Karachi in the 19th century, trade took to the sea, and the caravans disappeared. Jaisalmer declined inexorably and for many years was a virtual ghost town. Since then, Jaisalmer Fort has become one of Rajasthan’s most popular tourist attractions, with around half a million visitors each year. Today, it seems to feature on the itinerary of every young European backpacker. Jaisalmer was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2013.

“From The Serai, long-wheelbase Jeeps take guests on excursions to the adjacent sand dunes. Along the way, we saw a flock of some 250 exquisite demoiselle cranes"