The great peaks of the Indian Himalayas are central to the mythology and philosophy of Hinduism. The Ganges River descends from glaciers near the Tibetan border to the pilgrimage city of Haridwar, located at the northern extent of the Indian plains. In the first range of foothills lies the town of Rishikesh, internationally famous for its ashrams and temples. Here, the Ganges is still a clear, fast-flowing mountain stream, and as well as being a holy river — even a brief dip is said to bring you closer to moksha, or liberation — it is highly regarded by the less devout for its excellent whitewater rafting. For Hindus, Rishikesh is also a point of departure for the “Char Dham” pilgrimage to the four holy sites of Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri, as well as to Gaumukh, the source of the Ganges. All are situated high in the Himalayas at more than 10,000 feet.

I will always want to return to the Himalayas, which are the most beautiful mountains in the world. Walking in the foothills of 25,500-foot Nanda Devi when the crimson rhododendrons are in full bloom is an almost psychedelic experience.