The republic occupying the southern half of the Korean peninsula between the Yellow and East seas (China and Japan are neighbors across the water to the west and east, respectively) is geographically diverse but ethnically homogeneous -- except for a small Chinese minority, nearly all Koreans identify with a common linguistic and cultural heritage. Nonetheless, variety is everywhere. The greater Seoul metropolitan area has a population of nearly 23 million people. The old city has become the modern-day downtown; there, the Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces are the two most prominent emblems of royal grandeur. The 21st-century attractions are as impressive as the remnants of antiquity. Thanks to the city’s role as host of the 1988 Olympics, the subway system is extensive, efficient and foreigner-friendly. To escape the city fray, ascend nearby Mount Inwang, home to a Buddhist temple and a shamanist shrine.