Itinerary Highlights

  • Spend a blissful day exploring the Islas Cíes archipelago
  • Visit the only city in the world surrounded by intact Roman walls
  • Stay in a 16th-century palace
  • Enjoy the pintxo bars of San Sebastián
  • Visit the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture
  • Spend time exploring and tasting the products of many local wineries

Follow in Our Footsteps

Editor’s Itinerary

Spain
Duration: 14 Days

Spain is a perennial favorite with Andrew Harper members, and with good reason. I always feel excited to have an excuse to return. Most travelers focus on Madrid, Barcelona and Andalusia in the south. But this time I turned north to Galicia, a Celtic region that in some ways has more in common with Brittany or Ireland than it does with the rest of the country. I’ve lost count of my visits to Spain, but this trip still felt like a journey into the unknown.

The 14-day itinerary below makes for a delightful road trip across northern Spain, one that partially intersects with the 500-mile-long Camino de Santiago, one of the world’s most famous pilgrimage routes. It also encompasses the dramatic coast; the magnificent cathedral cities of Santiago de Compostela, León and Burgos; and the great wine region of Rioja.

Day 1

Madrid

Arrive in Madrid this morning. Change planes and take a short flight to Vigo.

Rent a car and drive 45 minutes to the Parador de Baiona, contained within the crenellated medieval walls of the Castillo de Monterreal. Its location on a rocky promontory affords memorable views of breakers crashing on the rugged coastline. Book one of the property’s three Unique Rooms — 201, 242 or 323 — since they’re larger, more distinctively decorated and come with jetted tubs.

Before dinner in the parador’s fine restaurant, ask the staff to prepare a picnic for tomorrow’s excursion.

Stay Overnight

Parador de Baiona

This historic Parador de Baiona hotel is contained within the crenelated medieval walls of the Castelo de Monterreal.

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Day 2

Islas Cíes

Take the ferry from Baiona to the Islas Cíes, three islands off the coast that became part of a national park in 2002. There, you can spend a blissful day on the Praia das Rodas, a crescent of soft, pale sand fronting an expanse of calm, clear sea.

Stay Overnight

Parador de Baiona

This historic Parador de Baiona hotel is contained within the crenelated medieval walls of the Castelo de Monterreal.

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Day 3

Santiago de Compostela

Depart Baiona at noon and drive 45 minutes north to the Michelin-starred Casa Solla, set just outside of the town of Pontevedra, for lunch (closed Mondays).

After your meal, continue an hour north to Santiago de Compostela, a gracious and unspoiled university city best known as the end of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.

Check into either the Parador de Santiago de Compostela, housed in a 15th-century building right across from the cathedral, or the smaller A Quinta da Auga, which has a less-convenient location just outside of town but superior accommodations, a pool and a spa.

Stay Overnight

Parador de Santiago de Compostela

Situated in a 15th-century convent facing the cathedral, the palatial Parador de Santiago de Compostela hotel is located on Obradoiro Square.

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Day 4

Explore Santiago de Compostela

Spend today exploring Santiago de Compostela. The city’s focal point is its magnificent granite cathedral, construction of which began in 1075. Regardless of whether you’re staying in the parador, I recommend having a meal in its Restaurante dos Reis, which occupies vaulted former stables.

Stay Overnight

Parador de Santiago de Compostela

Situated in a 15th-century convent facing the cathedral, the palatial Parador de Santiago de Compostela hotel is located on Obradoiro Square.

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Day 5

León

Depart Santiago de Compostela and drive 90 minutes to Lugo, the only city in the world that is surrounded by completely intact Roman walls. The road there runs parallel to the Camino de Santiago, and you’re likely to catch sight of pilgrims striding along determinedly.

After circumnavigating Lugo’s walls, which reach a height of 50 feet, continue on to León, another two and a half hours to the east.

Check in to the Parador de León, which occupies a spectacular 16th-century palace. Walk through old town to the spectacular Gothic cathedral.

(For those who want to bypass Lugo and León, there are a few nonstop flights from Santiago de Compostela to Bilbao. One could then stay in Bilboa or drive on to San Sebastián, in Spanish Basque country. This gastronomic capital is a hotbed for Michelin-starred restaurants and renowned chefs, but you can also eat well spending little at the city's many pintxo bars. Stay nearby at the alluring Akalarre hotel, whose perch over the North Atlantic is mesmerizingly beautiful. From either Bilbao or San Sebastián, drive to Hotel Viura and continue with the itinerary as written.)

Day 6

Burgos

If you stayed in León, drive two hours to Burgos, again paralleling the pilgrims’ route for much of the way. The focal point of this elegant little city is another magnificent Gothic cathedral, which here contains the tomb of the legendary 11th-century warrior El Cid.

The best available choice in Burgos is the NH Collection Palacio de Burgos. For those who flew into Bilbao or don’t want to stay in Burgos, continue for another 90 minutes to the Hotel Viura. Designed by architect-owners Joseba and Xabier Aramburu, this 33-room property has a bold, modern design composed of fancifully stacked concrete cubes, as well as a superb restaurant.

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Hotel Viura

The contemporary Hotel Viura features an avant-garde design of superimposed concrete cubes clumped in fanciful disarray.

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Day 7

La Rioja

Spend today exploring La Rioja. Perhaps start with a visit of the outstanding Bodega Luis Cañas, a 10-minute walk from your hotel.

The charming little town of Haro, a 20-minute drive away, contains many of La Rioja’s other great bodegas. Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España and López de Heredia are two of my favorites.

Day 8 - 10

Valladolid

Check out of your hotel and drive to the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture. This may be the single-best wine tourism experience in La Rioja. You can visit the museum without a guide at any time during operating hours, but advance reservations are required to tour the adjacent winery.

After your museum visit, drive 45 minutes south to Echaurren, and have lunch in its Michelin-starred restaurant, El Portal.

Continue south another two and a half hours to the 1,730-acre Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine estate, an exceptional 30-room hotel created from a former 12th-century Cistercian monastery. Be sure to take a guided tour of its winery. Additional amenities include an outdoor pool and a spectacular 10,000-square-foot spa featuring vinotherapy treatments using grape extracts. The resort also offers a full range of activities such as horseback riding and golf.

Spend one or two days relaxing at Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine. Among other notable wineries, the iconic Vega Sicilia vineyard is nearby, as is the atmospheric old city of Valladolid.

Stay Overnight

Abadia Retuerta

Abadía Retuerta is just down the road from the famous Vega Sicilia vineyard, this magnificent property encompasses 30 rooms and suites divided between a 12th-century Cistercian monastery and former abbey stables.

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Day 11

Madrid

Depart Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine and drive an hour south to the fairy-tale city of Segovia. The romantic towers and crenellations of the Alcázar de Segovia punctuate the western edge of the hilltop city. In the middle rises the honey-toned bell tower of the late-Gothic cathedral, and an immense two-tiered Roman aqueduct leads away from the eastern end of the old quarter.

After taking some time to explore and have lunch, continue another hour to Madrid’s airport and return your rental car. Take a taxi into the city center and check into the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, which underwent a three-year renovation and reopened in 2021.

Stay Overnight

Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid

The legendary Mandarin Oriental Ritz, offering abundant charm and Old World-style service, is located in a landmark 1910 palace.

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Day 12 - 13

Explore Madrid

Spend two days in Madrid, visiting its world-class art museums and boutiques. The Prado claims one of the world’s greatest art collections, and numerous smaller museums such as the Reina Sofía and the Thyssen-Bornemisza contain masterpieces as well. The lesser-known Museo Cerralbo and Museo Sorolla, housed in former private homes, also merit visits.

Stay Overnight

Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid

The legendary Mandarin Oriental Ritz, offering abundant charm and Old World-style service, is located in a landmark 1910 palace.

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Day 14

Return home

Return to the airport, and depart on your flight home.

This is a sample itinerary designed to inspire your travels. Price listed is based on two people sharing, except where noted. Flights are not included. Room categories, dates of travel and change to services may affect the starting price. Contact the Andrew Harper Travel Office to customize this journey to fit your needs.