When packing for a trip to Buenos Aires, I always leave plenty of room for treasures to take home. I bring back gifts for others, of course, but an honest assessment of my haul this time revealed a much larger amount of space devoted to gifts for me. I came away with stylish shoes, belts, a leather jacket and capybara gloves, among other items. Whoever you’re shopping for, the high quality and reasonable prices in Buenos Aires make the hunt great fun. We made purchases at both street fairs and fashionable boutiques.

When planning your shopping forays, add the following suggestions to the list of recommended shops we published in June 2024. 

Street Fairs

Feria de San Telmo

The famous San Telmo Market takes place every Sunday, sprawling out from Plaza Dorrego, where the antiques dealers set up. This section is picturesque, but I’m more likely to buy something along Defensa heading north from the square, where the craft stalls line the street. Also be sure to head west from Plaza Dorrego along Humberto 1º, to see the artists’ tables. The sophistication of the works far surpasses most street-fair fare. I particularly liked the abstract-cubist paintings of Pastor Berrios Herrera.

Feria Honduras

Also known as the Plaza Serrano Market, this Sunday fair in Palermo Soho is smaller, less crowded and less touristy than the one in San Telmo. It, too, has an art section that’s worth browsing. I didn’t buy any prints or paintings, but I did find stylish leather wallets and belts in the stalls around the plaza. 

Feria de Artesanos de Plaza Francia

Open Saturdays and Sundays, the Recoleta market focuses on high-quality artists and artisans. Spread across Plaza Francia, at the end of Avenida Alvear, it’s in easy walking distance of the Alvear Palace, Park Hyatt and Four Seasons hotels (in that order). We saw artworks ranging from realistic portraits of sports stars to gritty graffiti-style paintings. Those searching for souvenirs will find plenty of options as well, including the standard selection of handmade belts, leather-bound journals and elaborate maté cups.

Boutiques

Guido

The Recoleta store of this high-end shoe company occupies two floors of a historic townhouse. The second level, with men’s shoes, still looks like an aristocratic living room, with ornate molding, crystal chandeliers and an antique marble mantelpiece. The styles tend to be classic, but the boots, sneakers, flats and pumps are obviously well made and look expensive.

Guido
Avenida Presidente Quintana 333. Tel. (54) 911-2296-3481

Terrible Enfant/La Jolla

On a chic block in Retiro, this zapatería with two names has an edgier selection. Men’s footwear is on the ground level in Terrible Enfant, and women’s options can be found upstairs in La Jolla. Many of the ladies’ shoes were too racy for us — the heels a bit too high, the boots with too many studs — but the men’s range had more temptations. The colorful wing tips, loafers and slip-ons would offer a touch of sprezzatura to an otherwise restrained ensemble. I ended up with a pair of mahogany-hued oxfords with a pattern tattooed onto the leather.

Terrible Enfant/La Jolla
Arroyo 961. Tel. (54) 911-6260-6016

Casa Lopez

The finest leather shop in Buenos Aires remains Retiro’s Casa Lopez, which we’ve long recommended. Whenever I go back to the city, I pay a visit, though I don’t usually buy one of the exquisite leather coats or bags. This time, I finally went for it and purchased a pair of suede gloves made from capybara leather, which has a distinctive dotted texture. My companion blanched at the price, but if life is to be worth living, one must treat oneself on occasion.

Casa Lopez
Marcelo Torcuato de Alvear 640. Tel. (54) 11-4311-3044

Sylvia y Mario

Just a block away, Sylvia y Mario also has top-drawer leather items but is a notch less expensive than Casa Lopez. A friendly clerk took us to the workshop upstairs, full of colorful raw materials. A board illuminated the differences between various leathers. I succumbed to a bomber jacket of soft lapis-hued calf. My ever-sensible companion scooted me out before I had a chance to try on one of the sweaters of fine Argentinean cashmere.

Sylvia y Mario 
Marcelo Torcuato de Alvear 550. Tel. (54) 11-6809-6474

Patio Bullrich

I don’t often recommend visiting malls, but this converted 19th-century auction house in Retiro has an interior that would surely meet with Gustave Eiffel’s approval. Inside, you’ll find numerous designer clothing boutiques, including brands on the couture end of the scale. Patio Bullrich can also be handy for well-made basics at more moderate shops like Etiqueta Negra. A vintage race car stands in the middle of its menswear section.

Patio Bullrich
Posadas 1245. Tel. (54) 11-4814-7400

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