Dining in Northern California’s wine country is always a great pleasure. Chefs have access to unusually fine local produce, allowing them to create seasonal dishes that showcase ingredients at their peak. Indeed, restaurants in the region can have surprisingly strict definitions of “local” and “seasonal.” At Hazel Hill in the Montage Healdsburg, for example, I asked our waitress if the Liberty Farms duck on the menu was local. She replied, “No, it’s not local to Healdsburg. But it is from Sonoma County.”