Like Charleston, Savannah is famous for its Lowcountry cuisine. Its chefs have easy access to a bounty of heirloom produce and local seafood, and visitors to the cities are drawn as much by their restaurants as their history and architecture. Tempted though I was to double-check on long-recommended venues like The Grey, Husk and Elizabeth on 37th, I was determined to expand our list beyond these classic mainstays.

Alligator Soul

This cellar restaurant in the northern part of the historic district is a cozy choice for upscale Lowcountry cuisine. Our amuse-bouche proved surprisingly heavy, its fried okra component having lost its crunch in the interval between cooking and serving. My appetizer of Brunswick gumbo, however, had depth of flavor and just the right amount of heat. It was packed with andouille, braised pork, shrimp, crawfish and frog legs. I had ample time to digest before I finally received my “exotic special,” a tender medium-rare Texas antelope fillet with mushroom-Marsala sauce, parsnip purée and roasted carrots. It was delicious, but I couldn’t help but wish I was dining at Husk, just two blocks away. Closed Sunday.

Alligator Soul
114 Barnard Street. Tel. (912) 232-7899