Portuguese cuisine is hearty, honest and delicious, with the principal ingredients being pork, bread, rice, olive oil and, of course, seafood. Set aside any worries about overdosing on bacalhau (salt cod), however. The restaurants in Lisbon offer an impressively sophisticated variety of dishes, cooked with finesse. On a recent trip I had a number of dining experiences worth sharing, both firmly local and globally inspired, upscale and down-to-earth.