Many still think that Swiss cuisine inevitably involves melted cheese. I’m happy to eat fondue and its sibling raclette in winter, but on my recent visit to Switzerland’s most populous city, I had my eye on some of the more contemporary restaurants. Whether traditional or avant-garde, Zurich’s top dining establishments have access to superb local produce and freshwater fish, in addition to the expected high-quality dairy products. Eating in Zurich, although not inexpensive, is a consistent pleasure.