Many still think that Swiss cuisine inevitably involves melted cheese. I’m happy to eat fondue and its sibling raclette in winter, but on my recent visit to Switzerland’s most populous city, I had my eye on some of the more contemporary restaurants. Whether traditional or avant-garde, Zurich’s top dining establishments have access to superb local produce and freshwater fish, in addition to the expected high-quality dairy products. Eating in Zurich, although not inexpensive, is a consistent pleasure.

I recommend pairing Swiss cuisine with the country’s world-class wines, few of which are exported. Switzerland makes fine wine from both international and unique indigenous grapes such as Arvine, which can make a superb white. Pinot Noir is the most commonly planted variety, red or white, and the best examples are very seductive indeed.

20/20 by Mövenpick

One of Zurich’s newest Michelin stars belongs to this jewel box of a restaurant, located above the popular Mövenpick Wein-Bar, a short walk from all our recommended hotels in the city. Cozy 20/20 opened in 2016, but with its extravagant wood-paneled walls and ceiling, it looks much older and has a strong sense of place. When we arrived, it took a moment to find the one waiter who was working — only three tables were occupied during our lunchtime visit, and there was no host — but once we did, he provided impressively warm and knowledgeable service in flawless English.