Above: Mezzeluna pasta with mortadella di gallo, stracciatella, raw-milk butter, onion cream, pistachio and black truffle, Boccon DiVino, Montalcino

Notable Tuscan Tables

When anticipating a trip to Tuscany, I look forward to exploring its historic hill towns, contemplating its art treasures and taking in the splendor of its landscapes. But really, more than anything else, I look forward to eating. Restaurants have access to some of the finest local and seasonal produce in the world, in addition to top-quality meats such as wild boar and Chianina beef, and fresh seafood from the Tuscan coast. And, of course, the region also has its pasta specialties, like pici and pappardelle.

The restaurants below are scattered across central and eastern Tuscany, and each is close to a recommended hotel or site of interest. In addition to excellent food, I sought out attractive spaces. In such a lovely corner of the world, it seems a shame to dine somewhere that is anything less than beautiful. Advance reservations are strongly recommended, if not required.

Arnolfo

Chianina beef steak and tongue with a prism of Mugello potato and tarragon mayonnaise, Arnolfo - Photo by Andrew Harper editor
Part of the Arnolfo dining room - Stefano Scata

Less than a half-hour from Belmond Castello di Casole or COMO Castello Del Nero, this gourmet restaurant is in the heart of Colle Alta, the atmospheric ridge-top old quarter of Colle di Val d’Elsa. Photographs of abandoned palaces decorate the walls of the small, bright dining rooms, and table settings make use of fine local crystal. Elegant waiters glide about the space in well-tailored suits, and the food has the jewel-like presentations one expects in a Michelin two-star establishment. We opted for the “Land Evolution” menu, including meat and seafood, rather than “Vegetable Architectures,” which also looked appealing. The meal ended up being nine courses. I particularly loved the mild and almost creamy Tuscan prawn tartare with sea asparagus pesto and finger lime gelée, the delicate guinea fowl agnolotti with sweet-savory tomato sauces and a guinea fowl croquette, and the superbly tender Simone Fracassi Chianina beef steak and tongue with paper-thin potato slices and tarragon mayonnaise. The full-bodied Teruzzi “Terre di Tufi” white blend was a compelling pairing for the first courses, and the bold and complex Fanti Brunello di Montalcino came in the tallest wine glass I’ve ever held. Michelin can be unreliable in Italy, but here the guide got it right.

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Above: Mezzeluna pasta with mortadella di gallo, stracciatella, raw-milk butter, onion cream, pistachio and black truffle, Boccon DiVino, Montalcino

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