One of the considerable pleasures of travel in New Zealand is the chance to try some of the country’s admirable wines. The first wine was made in 1839 by a Scotsman named James Busby. In the ensuing years, little of note happened. A vigorous temperance movement put a damper on most ventures. It wasn’t until the 1960s that wine could be sold in restaurants by the bottle, and then only until 10 p.m.