What makes Barcelona one of the world’s great food cities is the fact that it’s still fed by hundreds of small farms located no more than a dozen or so miles from the city center, plus local fishing boats that ply the Mediterranean daily. And Catalonia’s artisan butchers, cheesemakers, olive-oil producers and other food purveyors understand the excellence that the knowing locals demand. Following the craze for molecular gastronomy from chefs like Ferran Adria, the city’s culinary creativity has become much less theatrical, but no less innovative or delicious. The gastronomic bottom-line in Barcelona, however, will always be the spectacular local produce at the beck and call of its most talented chefs. Here are three restaurants we recently enjoyed.

Alkimia

Chef Jordi Vilà’s superb contemporary Catalan restaurant now occupies a chic new setting in the heart of the city. This is an address for sophisticated food lovers willing to embark on one of the fascinating tasting menus.

Dishes might include Swiss chard with oyster romesco sauce, leek tart with horseradish, and locally caught wood-grilled fish with eggplant, pickled lemon and clam juice.