Modestly sized Morocco is packed with dramatic scenery and historic cities, and it offers a fascinating cultural heritage. I love the ornate palaces of Marrakech and the mud-walled kasbahs of the Skoura Valley, the amber dunes of the Sahara and the snow-dusted peaks of the High Atlas Mountains. And because it’s as distant from the conflicts in the Middle East as Portugal, the country remains a safe option for American visitors, with top-notch tourism infrastructure — including some of the world’s best hotels. Plus, Morocco is easy to reach via nonstop flights from New York, Miami and Washington, D.C.

In November, we explored the country’s coastal cities, beginning in Tangier and continuing by high-speed rail to Rabat and Casablanca before ending with a sunny beach escape in Oualidia. Engaging guides took us to Roman ruins, Andalusian villages, evocative markets and the only mosque in the country open to non-Muslim visitors, as we reveled in the lack of tourists.

We found an elegant new hideaway in Tangier and dazzling reimagined properties in Rabat and Casablanca. But we also experienced disappointments from well-regarded legacy brands, underscoring the importance of our undercover stays.