Sometimes I find myself in a destination that would be otherwise unremarkable if not for a fabulous hotel. Fortunately, Oaxaca was not one of those places. In Oaxaca city, inventive restaurants use ancient traditions to create modern recipes, Banda music echoes through the streets during wedding parades, and the colorful colonial architecture is a visual feast. Oaxaca is truly and authentically Mexican.

Beyond the city, the Oaxaca state is one of the most inaccessible in Mexico — some villages are a 16-hour drive from the capital or completely inaccessible by road. Additionally, much of the state is sovereign land with little infrastructure for tourists, making it a difficult place to explore without a guide. In many ways, Oaxaca feels like its own country. The Travel Office can set up fascinating day trips to remote artisan villages, mezcal distilleries, breathtaking natural wonders and enigmatic ancient ruins.

On the wild Oaxacan coast, where tiny hippie enclaves contrast chic art-centric retreats, my traveling companion and I discovered an appealing hideaway outside the renowned surf town of Puerto Escondido. It was a relaxing finish to my first editorial exploration of Oaxaca, but it surely won’t be my last. I look forward to returning to discover more of its cultural and ecological riches as more luxury hotels open, which they certainly will.