During all my years of European travel, I’ve found myself drawn to the continent’s family-owned hotels. I love their individuality, their sense of tradition and their atmosphere of continuity. The Hassler is my favorite hotel in Rome, in part because it has been owned by the Wirth family since 1921. When its great proprietor, Roberto E. Wirth, passed away in June, the sadness was tempered by the knowledge that the next generation, Roberto Jr. and Veruschka Wirth, would be stepping up to take his place. It was with mixed emotions, therefore, that I learned of the changes at the Rosa Alpina, a peerless mountain lodge in the Dolomites.