For years the very definition of fine dining in Manhattan, French gastronomy fell out of fashion early this century, and temples of haute cuisine like La Caravelle, La Côte Basque and Lutèce closed their doors. Now, New York finds itself in the midst of a Gallic resurgence. Though I reviewed no fewer than seven new high-end French restaurants on this latest trip, I could have certainly added more to the list had time (and digestion) permitted. Some options proved more compelling than others, but there wasn’t a single dud. For Francophiles, there’s never been a better time to eat out in New York.

L’Abeille

Since opening in the summer of 2022, this sleek Tribeca restaurant has already earned a Michelin star. Moss-green velvet booths and steel-blue velvet chairs soften the space of black, white and wood. Chef Mitsunobu Nagae serves precise contemporary French cuisine in four- or seven-course tasting menus, both of which offer various chances to “upgrade” by including an additional course or supplements of truffle or caviar (you can order à la carte only at the bar). We opted for the smaller one with no upgrades, yet dinner still felt extravagant. Inspired wine pairings included a light-bodied Chinon to accompany flawless mackerel and a forceful premier cru Santenay to go with duck embellished by sublimely airy Maltaise sauce (like citrusy hollandaise). The smart, rather intense sommelier graciously topped up our glasses from time to time, but he was always quick to move on. However, the efficient but rushed service is a quibble. I’d happily come back to try the latest menu and more of the superb French wines — the by-the-glass list had 29 options, including Krug Champagne and Château d’Yquem Sauternes! Closed Sunday and Monday.

L’Abeille
412 Greenwich Street. Tel. (212) 542-3898