For years the very definition of fine dining in Manhattan, French gastronomy fell out of fashion early this century, and temples of haute cuisine like La Caravelle, La Côte Basque and Lutèce closed their doors. Now, New York finds itself in the midst of a Gallic resurgence. Though I reviewed no fewer than seven new high-end French restaurants on this latest trip, I could have certainly added more to the list had time (and digestion) permitted. Some options proved more compelling than others, but there wasn’t a single dud. For Francophiles, there’s never been a better time to eat out in New York.

L’Abeille

Since opening in the summer of 2022, this sleek Tribeca restaurant has already earned a Michelin star. Moss-green velvet booths and steel-blue velvet chairs soften the space of black, white and wood. Chef Mitsunobu Nagae serves precise contemporary French cuisine in four- or seven-course tasting menus, both of which offer various chances to “upgrade” by including an additional course or supplements of truffle or caviar (you can order à la carte only at the bar). We opted for the smaller one with no upgrades, yet dinner still felt extravagant. Inspired wine pairings included a light-bodied Chinon to accompany flawless mackerel and a forceful premier cru Santenay to go with duck embellished by sublimely airy Maltaise sauce (like citrusy hollandaise). The smart, rather intense sommelier graciously topped up our glasses from time to time, but he was always quick to move on. However, the efficient but rushed service is a quibble. I’d happily come back to try the latest menu and more of the superb French wines — the by-the-glass list had 29 options, including Krug Champagne and Château d’Yquem Sauternes! Closed Sunday and Monday.

L’Abeille
412 Greenwich Street. Tel. (212) 542-3898

Essential by Christophe

If this new restaurant on the Upper West Side doesn’t earn a Michelin star in the next guide, it will be a grave injustice. The space has a minimalist décor, and it feels convivial without being too loud. Welcoming, personable waitstaff presented chef Christophe Bellanca’s exquisite French dishes, offering helpful advice about what to order (not the chicken, the scallops!) and which wines to pair. Indeed, the scallops with truffle-studded scallop mousse wrapped in savoy cabbage were delicate and delicious. Even better was the sigh-inducing venison saddle in rich périgourdine (Madeira and black truffle) sauce with candele pasta stuffed with artichoke and yet more truffle. The grippy off-menu Gigondas recommended by our waiter was just the thing to clear the palate between bites. A jewel-like Vacherin (here, meringue topped with clementine marmalade and makrut-lime sorbet) was a visually striking and refreshing finish to a decadent dinner. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Essential by Christophe
103 West 77th Street. Tel. (646) 478-7928

La Grande Boucherie

Nowadays, many restaurants in the city that never sleeps close their doors on Sunday and Monday nights. But La Grande Boucherie in Midtown is open seven days a week (as are its older sister restaurants in Greenwich Village and near Union Square). Although the entrance isn’t immediately obvious from the street, a quiet romantic bistro this is not. The vast and bustling brasserie-like space serves well-prepared French classics and specializes in meat-based dishes, as indicated by its name. Preparations tend to be hearty and forthright. The classic onion soup, for example, had deep flavor and bubbled over with browned Gruyère cheese. Grilled filet mignon came perfectly medium-rare with a delectable charred crust. Only the cassoulet, with its overcooked beans and too-mushy breadcrumb topping, was a bit of a disappointment.

La Grande Boucherie
145 West 53rd Street. Tel. (212) 510-7714

Le Gratin

With its warm and beautifully traditional décor, this popular spot in The Beekman hotel, near City Hall, draws fashionable patrons of all ages. Star chef Daniel Boulud serves unimpeachably delicious recipes from his hometown, Lyon, as well as dishes from elsewhere in France, like sole meunière Grenobloise and spaghetti with niçoise pistou. We started with classic poireaux vinaigrette, which combined sweet poached leeks, tangy mustard, crunchy hazelnuts and creamy mousseline. Also classic (and superb) were the fluffy Lyonnaise-style pike dumplings in savory béchamel with Gruyère and mushrooms. Boulud got more creative with the escargot, which came encased in crunchy tempura and accompanied by mushrooms, garlic butter and a spinach-herb coulis. Main courses, like perfectly grilled branzino and impressively tender duck breast with green-peppercorn sauce, also proved delightful. I relish this sort of unfussy but expertly prepared French cuisine.

Le Gratin
5 Beekman Street. Tel. (212) 597-9020

Maison Close

With a name that means “brothel,” Maison Close strikes me as most fun for a boozy “Sex and the City”-style weekend brunch. Certainly, the show’s characters would appreciate the stylish patrons, glamorous interior and handsome waitstaff, which seemed to consist solely of young men with French accents. I reserved us a table for the quieter first brunch seating at noon, and we proceeded to feast on classics like eggs poached in red wine with pork belly (a real treat with some crusty baguette), escargots in addictive garlic-butter sauce and a fantastically rich burger topped with caramelized onion, funky raclette cheese and housemade mayonnaise. We eventually decamped to the bar, where the bartender convinced us to try his surprisingly complex espresso martinis, made in part by blowtorching coffee beans and shaking them with vodka. As the second seating began at 2:30 p.m., the lights dimmed and the music morphed from mellow jazz to house. A half-hour later, Maison Close was in full Moulin Rouge mode, lit all in red while a pasty-clad burlesque performer danced between blue-velvet booths. By 3:30, it was unpleasantly loud, and we made our escape. In the evenings, I’m told, the party starts around 10 p.m. Closed Monday.

Maison Close
15 Watts Street. Tel. (347) 699-1468

La Marchande

Contrastingly staid La Marchande is the main restaurant of the new Wall Street Hotel, located on the site of New York’s first stock exchange in the 18th century. A local friend joined us for dinner and remarked, “This doesn’t seem very New York; it feels suburban.” Seeing our confused expressions, she elaborated: “It’s fairly quiet, and the tables are all well spaced, not packed together.” Somehow, this didn’t strike me as a problem! Following a familiar script, chefs John Fraser and Rick Horiike seek to “create lighter fare by embracing vinaigrettes and broths versus the heavier cuisine of traditional French brasseries.” A dish exemplifying this aim was their revision of heavy French onion soup. Here, thin pasta parcels filled with melted onion and truffle dotted a classy mushroom consommé speckled with cubes of Gruyère. I wish that we’d ordered more from the raw bar. The king-salmon carpaccio with pickled nasturtium and maple-soy vinaigrette exhibited supple balance. I loved our main courses as well: seared scallops and shrimp with sweet kabocha squash, slightly bitter Brussels sprouts and a rich cream sauce and sumptuously tender honey-glazed duck with fish-sauce caramel. The chocolate-lemongrass mousse with coriander ice cream was an ideal finish, both refreshing and indulgent.

La Marchande
88 Wall Street. Tel. (212) 837-2089

Le Rock

Currently one of New York’s most coveted reservations, Le Rock occupies a striking art deco space on the ground floor of a Rockefeller Center building. With help from the Aman’s concierge, we secured a table for lunch. It proved worth the effort. A well-turned-out crowd gave the room energy without making it noisy. We ordered the $70 prix-fixe, which included an amuse-bouche, appetizer, main course and dessert. Highlights included a mild and savory amuse-bouche of mussels conserva with aioli, a silky velouté of celery root and chestnut, buttery fluke meunière with spinach and baby potatoes, spicy merguez sausage with mustard and crunchy fries and a sublime profiterole for dessert. Our waiter proved both charming and efficient, and I give the sommelier high marks for the creative by-the-glass wine list. I can’t wait to go back to try dinner. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Le Rock
45 Rockefeller Plaza. Tel. (332) 258-8734