Bangkok’s iconic temples, such as Wat Arun and Wat Pho, are rightly on the must-visit lists of most first-time travelers to the Thai capital. But these landmarks are often crowded with tourists. On this trip, I wanted to experience a quieter, more contemplative side of the city’s sacred heritage. My advisor in our Travel Office arranged for a special guide: Ton Kunakorn, a historian and lecturer in urban studies, art, and design. Over the course of three fascinating hours, he led us on a captivating tour of Thonburi, the former capital of Thailand, located on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River.

We started at Wat Ratchasittharam, a serene late-18th-century temple that sees few visitors. In fact, just one lone worshipper was making an offering, and no loudspeakers were asking for donations. While the interior was closed that day, Ton took us around the temple’s periphery, highlighting the significance of architectural details we would have otherwise overlooked. For example, the rococo-like designs of the door frame, depicting pineapples, peonies and acanthus leaves, were indicative of the influence of Western and Chinese cultures during the time of King Rama I.

Surrounding the temple were stone sculptures of mythical animals — a notable detail, as stone was scarce in this city built on a river delta. These sculptures arrived as ballast on ships returning from China, which had been dispatched laden with rice during a time of famine. This trade not only sustained lives but also fostered a rich cultural exchange, with Chinese ideas and decorative styles leaving a lasting influence on Siam (Thailand). As Ton put it: “You can learn a lot from an ordinary temple.”