Oaxaca, once one of the poorest states in Mexico, is quickly becoming a hot spot — and one of my favorite places in the country. The state is remote and diverse, with rugged beaches, picturesque mountains, historic mezcal plantations, charming small towns and the colorful city of Oaxaca de Juárez, commonly referred to as Oaxaca City.

Despite its newfound popularity, a trip to Oaxaca still feels like an adventure. Here’s how to make the most of your visit in this beguiling destination, from the city to the coast.

Getting there: Geographically, Oaxaca is quite close to the United States, but traveling there can be tricky. There are direct flights to Oaxaca City from Houston and Dallas, or you can connect through Mexico City. We recommend flying into Oaxaca City and finishing your trip in Puerto Escondido, from which you can fly back to Oaxaca or Mexico City. The tiny airport in coastal Puerto Escondido has no direct flights to the United States.