For many, Bali looms large in the imagination as the original tropical paradise, an island where ancient temples hide deep in the jungle, volcanoes fill the skyline and dramatic cliffs plunge into the Indian Ocean. But while the island sounds like the ultimate vacation destination, it also suffers from overtourism, pollution and traffic that can wreak havoc on your travel plans. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Bali.

Getting There: There are no direct flights to Indonesia from the United States, but from certain major U.S. airports, it’s possible to reach Bali with a single connection, perhaps in Seoul, Hong Kong or Singapore. For my most recent trip, I made a brief connection in Doha with Qatar Airways. It proved to be a surprisingly comfortable 25 hours of travel.

I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar is efficient and well-equipped. It’s pleasanter than most U.S. airports and has plenty of international and domestic flight connections, meaning you won’t need to transit through Jakarta.

When to Go: Bali is a year-round destination. The rainy season lasts from November to April, but it’s not uncommon to have multiple sunny days in a row or only brief showers. Indeed, the festive season in December is one of the most popular times to visit the island. The busiest (and most expensive) months on the island are June and July, when you’ll meet hordes of Australians seeking winter sun and surf. We recommend visiting during shoulder season, either in May or September.

Where to Stay: Consider making your visit an itinerary and staying in more than one place. Ideally, pair a beach property with one of the stunning jungle retreats in Ubud. But if time allows, you can use Bali as a starting point to explore the rest of the country; Indonesia is home to some of the most exquisite resorts in Asia. (See “Beyond Bali” below.)

We suggest prioritizing Ubud, the cultural capital of the island, where you’ll find ancient temples and some of our favorite wellness-focused resorts in dramatic jungle settings, including Capella Ubud and COMO Shambhala Estate. Beaches are often rocky and dangerous, with powerful currents that make swimming unsafe. Many of Bali’s beaches tend to be polluted and are often strewn with garbage — not from the island itself, but from shipping waste and ocean plastic. If soft sand and swimmable water are important to you, the Aman Villas at Nusa Dua will suit you well. Our recommended properties near Uluwatu, such as Alila Villas Uluwatu and Bulgari Resort, have mesmerizing ocean views, though the jagged cliffs and rough waters mean that you likely won’t be allowed to swim, even if your hotel has a beach.

Getting Around: Bali is a motorist’s nightmare. It’s inadvisable to rent a car, and for safety’s sake, do not be tempted to rent a scooter, either, even though you’ll see plenty of tourists whizzing by without helmets.

Our Travel Office can arrange any off-property excursions for you, either in your resort’s comfortable air-conditioned vehicles or, in some cases, a vintage buggy. For transfers between hotels, our advisors can arrange a guided day of sightseeing, with stops at temples and other landmarks.

When leaving for the airport, add at least an hour of padding to your travel time since the roads are extremely congested and traffic is unpredictable. On my trip, a two-hour drive between hotels turned into four hours, due to a religious procession. (The procession turned out to offer fantastic people-watching.)

The Cost: Even though our recommended hotels aren’t inexpensive, they provide excellent value. A $1,000-per-night accommodation with a private pool and butler service will almost certainly outclass a hotel room of the same price in Europe or North America in terms of design, service, amenities and setting. However, I urge you to read the fine print: The government adds a whopping 21% tax to hotel and restaurant bills, which can be an unpleasant surprise.

Dining Out: Indonesian cuisine is an unfailing delight. Look for fine renditions of classic dishes like satay and nasi goreng (a ubiquitous spicy fried rice), as well as lesser-known treats like tempeh lodeh (a tempeh green curry) and bubur ayam (a chicken porridge served at breakfast). All of our recommended hotels have both Western and Indonesian menu items, but I encourage you to be adventurous and choose the local delicacies. It’s especially worthwhile at breakfast, when you’ll be served a savory spread of rice or noodle dishes, grilled meats and lightly spiced stews.

Beyond hotel restaurants, there are some excellent places to eat, from cool modern bistros like Home by Chef Wayan to warungs (low-key cafés or food stalls). But for your digestion’s sake, eat only at establishments recommended by your hotel, your travel advisor or your guide. Beware of those delicious-looking roadside smoothies made with unfiltered ice.

Hotels and high-end restaurants may have a line on the bill where you can add gratuity, but keep cash on hand to leave a small tip (5% of the bill, perhaps) at more informal spots.

Shopping: Bali is full of markets that sell quality crafts alongside cheap mass-produced trinkets. Fortunately, most salespeople are friendly and polite and won’t pressure you to buy anything. Keep an eye out for locally made items like batik or indigo sarongs and woven bags. In Ubud, you’ll find smart (but astonishingly affordable) boutiques selling homewares and linen clothes. If you’d like to bring home an edible souvenir, there are quite a few high-quality Balinese chocolate brands that are easy to find at local shops.

Solo Travel: The island is well-suited to couples and families, but it’s also an excellent destination for solo travelers. Those traveling on their own will find friendly and welcoming hospitality.

Beyond Bali: With more than 17,000 islands, Indonesia is impossible to explore fully on a single trip. Bali is conveniently located in the middle of the country, within easy reach of some of the most rewarding travel experiences in Asia. For example, consider adding a week or two before or after your visit to sail through Raja Ampat on a luxury phinisi (traditional Indonesian sailing yacht), see Komodo dragons in the wild, wonder at the magnificent temples of Borobudur and Prambanan or simply relax at Nihi Sumba, one of the finest beach resorts in the world on neighboring Sumba Island.