As we were planning our latest visit to Copenhagen, Noma made headlines around the world: The celebrated Michelin three-star would close its doors at the end of 2024. Foodies were shocked, industry folks were not exactly surprised, and we were disappointed. Our 2020 reservations to Noma had been canceled due to the pandemic, and now the world swarmed its online reservation system. Luckily, this foodie capital of capitals has no shortage of stellar restaurants with masterful chefs tweezering flowers onto food. We discovered two up-and-coming talents paying homage to Danish cuisine in different ways, and a white-tablecloth eatery where the humble smørrebrød is elevated.

Connection by Alan Bates

“Book a table and come have the most fun you can legally have in a restaurant.” That’s chef Alan Bates’ delightful Instagram invitation, and it’s one I encourage you to accept. With a single seating and just 18 customers a night, Connection by Alan Bates aims to create a bond with guests through good food, conversation and energy. The experience starts with a phone call or text from the hands-on chef, asking for reservation confirmation, the names of each party and their tastes in music. Only three people staff the kitchen, and Bates — to our surprise — was also our waiter, walking us through a 12-course extravaganza with an eight-glass wine pairing that leaned heavily on French bottlings. (He thoughtfully let us split the wine.) The “Cowboy Toast,” topped with chicken-liver “foie gras” and winter truffles from Spain, demonstrated why it’s been on the menu since the restaurant’s inception in 2021. Monkfish wrapped in eel aside French asparagus in hollandaise sauce made me newly appreciate the “poor man’s lobster.” But it was the Norwegian langoustine in smoked caviar beurre blanc with apples and grapes that was the star of the show. It made me feel like a child tasting ice cream for the first time. The restaurant is clearly a passion project for Bates, and it shows in every detail. (Note: The chef recently announced that he will return to five-course menus and lower the price to be more inclusive.) Closed Sunday-Tuesday.

Connection by Alan Bates
Øster Farimagsgade 18. Tel. (45) 40-22-00-67