In 2024, Bangkok claimed the title of most-visited city in the world, beating out Tokyo, Paris and New York. This metropolis of 11 million people is dazzling and disorienting and a mass of contradictions. Buddhist temples coexist near infamous red-light districts, the skyline mixes golden spires and soaring high-rises, gritty night markets stand beside gleaming shopping malls, and locals navigate it all by tranquil canals and traffic-clogged roads.

I always relish the prospect of returning, not least for Bangkok’s sensational culinary scene and almost unparalleled urban resorts. This time, my excuse to go back was to review a new property on the river and a longtime favorite that had garnered complaints. My traveling companion and I spent a week exploring the city before decamping to the island of Koh Samui for a few days of luxurious indolence. Alas, we visited Thailand just before the new Aman hotel opened in Bangkok. It seems that I’ll have to return again soon! 

Capella Bangkok

I generally recommend staying along the majestic Chao Phraya, Thailand’s most significant waterway and the lifeblood of its capital. The legendary 331-room Mandarin Oriental has long set the standard for luxury, while farther upriver, The Siam, a Bill Bensley-designed boutique hotel with just 38 rooms, has cultivated a devoted following as well. I love them both.