Troyes, the historic capital of theChampagneregion, is one of the most captivating small cities (population 60,000) in France. Ninety minutes by car south of Reims, it can also be reached by train in an hour and a half from Paris’ Gare de l’Est. There’s so much to see and do in this well-preserved medieval city on the Seine that we recommend a visit of at least two days. Happily, Troyes has yet to attract hordes of tourists and remains a quiet and atmospheric place where it’s a pleasure just to stroll the city’s streets.