Above: Beach accessed by a trail from Salishan Coastal Lodge, Gleneden Beach, Oregon

A Letdown on Oregon’s Central Coast

​Highway 101 runs 363 miles through Oregon, from Astoria on the south bank of the Columbia River to the California border. About midway is Depoe Bay. We visited the area several years ago when we discovered Whale Cove Inn, a wonderful hideaway with a stellar restaurant helmed by award-winning chef Justin Wills, which overlooks a cove rimmed by weathered cliffs and a slim crescent of driftwood-strewn sand. On this occasion, having read numerous flattering reviews in major national publications, we decided to check out the Salishan Coastal Lodge, an adventure, wellness and golf retreat in Gleneden Beach, 6 miles north of Depoe Bay.

The Golf Links at Salishan Coastal Lodge, Gleneden Beach, Oregon - Photo by Andrew Harper editor
Main building at Salishan Coastal Lodge - Photo by Andrew Harper editor

When we arrived, we were surprised to find that the resort was not beside the coast at all but on Siletz Bay, an expanse of water (and a national wildlife refuge) connected to the Pacific by a narrow channel. As our room was not ready, we decided to inspect the spa and golf clubhouse, both of which are located across Highway 101. The spa facilities include a cozy lounge with a fire pit and a large outdoor infinity whirlpool. The golf clubhouse had its own pub, and the friendly staff were happy to confirm our tee time for the following day. Between the spa and golf course, we found a shopping village with a café, brewery and boutiques.

The resort’s lodgings are contained within a dozen or so buildings spread across a forested property that extends along the bay. Our spacious Deluxe Room, on the third floor in the Alder building, came with an open beam ceiling, wood paneling, a king-size bed backed by a cedar headboard, a sofa with a blond leather ottoman, a cedar dining table and a floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace with a gas fire. A door led to a wooden deck with two rocking chairs facing the bay. This was pretty when the tide was in but a muddy expanse when the tide was out. A small cabinet contained a fridge and Keurig coffee machine. The tan-colored marble bath had a shower over the tub and a double vanity. Alas, the doors and cabinets were scuffed, and overall the design seemed mismatched.

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Above: Beach accessed by a trail from Salishan Coastal Lodge, Gleneden Beach, Oregon

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