Every time I visit Rio de Janeiro, I’m reminded why it’s one of my favorite cities in the world. Beyond the jaw-dropping natural setting, the postcard-worthy beaches and the fascinating offbeat cultural excursions, it’s just plain fun. You can’t walk more than a few steps without hearing the distinctive sounds of samba. Every night feels like Saturday night, and even on weekdays, you’ll see locals playing beach volleyball, drinking caipirinhas and living with an unbridled enthusiasm for simple pleasures. The energy of Rio is contagious, and it’s hard not to fall in love with this beautiful city.

A friend’s milestone birthday party in the resort town of Trancoso, farther north along the Brazilian coast, gave me an excellent excuse to revisit Rio. My traveling companion and I stayed incognito at both a stylish boutique hotel and one of the city’s most storied addresses — with mixed results.

Emiliano Rio

The unimpressive entrance of the 90-room Emiliano Rio seemed too basic for a luxury hotel. But the point here isn’t about wowing guests with a splashy lobby. It’s all about the view. After an efficient check-in process, a friendly staff member ushered us into an elevator and took us to the top floor. From the rooftop infinity pool and bar, Copacabana Beach unfurled below. It’s a high enough vantage point to take in the scale of the city, but close enough to the ground for people-watching. That was a wow.