As one might expect, the Côte d’Or has no shortage of excellent restaurants complete with superlative wine lists. On this visit, I discovered traditional gourmet experiences as well as more cutting-edge choices.

Le Jardin des Remparts

The 1930s villa housing this restaurant has pretty dining rooms, but the garden patio is its real glory. There we had an unforgettable lunch, starting with shelled escargot in a ring of fluffy garlic cream sauce. In the center, a hollow, falafel-like sphere contained more escargot bathed in butter infused with garlic and parsley. Just as good was the juicy Charolais beef with red wine sauce, mushrooms and a side of “mashed potatoes.” This crock of potato purée tasted ethereally light, and yet it was so rich with butter and cream that I have no doubt this dish has a place of honor on the dinner table in heaven.

Les Jardin des Remparts
10 Rue de l'Hôtel-Dieu, Beaune. Tel. (33) 3-80-24-79-41