Every time I go to Buenos Aires, a city dear to my heart, I discover something new. On this recent visit, for example, I delved into the Argentine capital’s rich Jewish culture, vibrant street-art scene and stylish speakeasies. But I also find its classic pleasures irresistible: tango shows, outdoor craft markets, fine food and wine and — not least — grand hotels. Lately, the city has been on an upswing, thanks in part to much-reduced inflation. Buenos Aires is often a necessary stop on an itinerary that includes Mendoza, Salta, Iguazu Falls and/or Patagonia. But my companion and I had no trouble filling a week just in town, eating too much, staying up too late and loving every minute of it.

The historic Alvear Palace Hotel used to be the city’s crown jewel, but a stay in 2024 didn’t thrill me (I preferred its contemporary sister hotel, the Alvear Icon). Recent member reviews have also been mixed. It was time to reassess the other great luxury hotels in town, which have upped their game even as the Alvear Palace lost some of its luster.  

Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires

In a slightly awkward location next to an elevated highway, the 165-room Four Seasons is nevertheless quiet and central, in walking distance to numerous fine restaurants and boutiques in the Retiro and Recoleta neighborhoods. Like its competitor the Park Hyatt (see below), the Four Seasons has two main buildings: a contemporary tower and a century-old former residence. Here, only a handful of expensive suites are in the otherwise inaccessible mansion. For most guests, it serves merely to ornament the nearby outdoor swimming pool and surrounding garden patio that extends out from the sun-drenched full-service spa.