When most people imagine visiting Brazil, I suspect it’s Rio that they picture. For me, the beautiful beaches, unspoiled coastal villages and vibrant cities of Bahia are just as much of a draw. It seems that each time I go, I discover just enough to realize that I’m only scratching the surface of this Brazilian state that’s roughly the size of France.

A recent trip took me back to Trancoso, a hippie-chic beach town for the jet set, and on to Salvador, the capital of Bahia that’s home to around 2.4 million people. There, among the candy-colored colonial buildings of the city’s Pelourinho district, I discovered a wealth of culture and creativity born from a complicated and sometimes violent history (the first capital of Portuguese Brazil, Salvador also became a major slave-trading port). A three-day stay was not nearly enough time to uncover the magic of this dynamic city, or the gorgeous surrounding areas that few Americans get to experience.

Even for those who have visited Brazil before, there’s enough to discover in Bahia to make it worthy of its own two-week adventure. This time, I reviewed two contrasting beach hotels in Trancoso, plus the most luxurious address (for now) in Salvador.