Seville is a fine place to sample the rich variety of Andalusian cuisine. Look for cold vegetable soups, of which gazpacho is only the most famous, and seafood, especially in fried dishes. Stews also play a prominent role, with oxtail being a consistent favorite. Here are four Seville restaurants I tried on a recent visit.

La Azotea

On a lively street just behind the Cathedral, this small, stylish restaurant draws those who are looking for modern takes on regional cooking. If the weather permits, the best place to sit is outside, but we were quite happy to perch at the bar. We began with rich, creamy gazpacho (unlike the crunchy version we tend to make at home), which was tangy with the acid of superb local tomatoes. Our favorite main course was huevos a la flamenca, a spicy dish of shrimp, beans and jamón Ibérico, topped by an egg.

La Azotea
Calle Mateos Gago 8. Tel. (34) 95-421-5878.